Izinqola ezidonswa izinkabi zinswininiza ngamatshe esikhumbuzo enziwe ngemabula aphakeme - aneziqubulo ezinjengokuthi “Phila phakade baba wethu” [Kim Il Sung]. Izinsalela zemigwaqo ewuthelawayeka enemizila emine zihambisana nethrekhi yesitimela eyodwa ephatha yonke ithrafikhi emhubheni osenyakatho-ntshonalanga. Izingane zesikole ezigqoke izikhindi ezidabukile zidlala eduze kwabalindi abanobuso obuqinile (izingane ziphethe izinduku; amasosha, izibhamu ezizishintshayo).
Ukungezwani okunjalo kubonisa umhlaba odidayo futhi cishe ongenakucatshangwa oyiDemocratic People's Republic of Korea, umbuso we-hermit ongase ube nezikhali zenuzi ezingamashumi amabili nambili noma ngaphezulu kuyilapho ngasikhathi sinye usonqenqemeni lwendlala engabhubhisa iningi labantu bakhona abampofu.
Manje, ngemibiko yangaphandle yokuthi iqhawe laseNyakatho Korea uKim Jong Il ugula kakhulu, ukunakwa kwamazwe ngamazwe sekuphinde kugxile kulesi sizwe esinezinkinga. Abaholi bomhlaba basasele, nokho, njengoba wonke umuntu ekhala ngomgwaqo obheke eNyakatho Korea. Isizathu salokhu silula: cishe akukho lutho - izindaba, ukunethezeka kwaseNtshonalanga, ngisho nabantu - kuvunyelwe ukungena noma ukuphuma.
Kodwa ngilapha, ngigibele isitimela esiphuma eJalimane nezinye izivakashi zaseShayina ezingu-30 kanye nonogada abaningi baseNyakatho Korea abagada amakhebhini, lapho siya ePyongyang. Ngize ngibone ukuthi ukuphila lapha kunjani kubantu baseKorea, ngilindele ngokuphelele okungenangqondo.
Engangingakulindele kwakuyisifundo somlando ngamagugu ami amasiko (ngasuka e-China ngaya e-US lapho ngineminyaka eyi-6), ngoba ngangingene ngephutha ingosi yesikhathi ngaya kuma-1970s i-Red China, ngaze ngayofika ekugadweni kuka-Orwellian futhi ukuvuma izono ngenkani.
Iholide lami laqala e-Dandong, okuwuphawu lwezinkuni lwanoma iyiphi enye i-boomtown yamaShayina, imigwaqo yakhona echichima ukugcwala kwabantu, amabhodi amakhulu, kanye nazo zonke izinhlobo zokuhalalisela eziphila ngephupho lonxiwankulu. Ngolunye usuku ekuseni ngasekupheleni kwenyanga edlule, isitimela esiphuma kanye ngosuku sehla sawela uMfula i-Yalu ozamula singena eNyakatho Korea.
Yize bekunokucasuka obekulindelekile kubavakashi baseShayina – “Bheka ukuthi bangaki abantu ababashushe kuleso sitimela,” kubabaza omunye wesifazane – iningi labagibeli beliqonda. “Baphila kangcono kunabalimi baseShaanxi naseGansu,” kusho indoda eyayiseduze kwami, njengoba ibuka amasimu aluhlaza erayisi nommbila namafulethi akhiwe uhulumeni.
Ithimba lethu elihambayo lalihlanganisa abalingiswa abahlukahlukene: owesifazane osekhulile owayezothola igama likamlamu wakhe etsheni lesikhumbuzo lasePyongyang labalingane baseShayina abafa phakathi neMpi YaseKorea; umhambi osemusha osemncane owayesevele ehlela uhambo lwakhe olulandelayo, ukugibela ujantshi weTran-Siberian oya eMoscow; umKorea oqinile owayehlala eShayina futhi wathatha lolu hambo njengomdlalo wangempelasonto.
Ngisho noma inesigaba esimaphakathi esikhulayo esingakwazi manje ukuya eholidini e-Thailand noma e-Hawaii, i-China isenabantu abaningi abavakashela eNyakatho Korea unyaka ngamunye - amakhulu ngosuku ngo-Agasti no-September phakathi nemidlalo ye-Arirang mass, umbukwane odlalwa esiteji we-gymnastics. Kungaba impatho kakhaphethi obomvu abayitholayo (amahhotela ezinkanyezi ezinhlanu, amadili e-buffet, amathikithi e-VIP), kodwa nginomuzwa wokuthi kwabanye engihamba nabo, iningi labo eminyakeni yawo-50, lolu hambo beluyithuba lokuphinde bavakashele ubusha babo obusebuhlungu eShayina. , nokuthi, “Bheka ukuthi sengihambe ibanga elingakanani.”
Umqondisi omkhulu, u-Ju Rol, osanda kushada waseNyakatho Korea, wasibingelela esiteshini sesitimela sasePyongyang senkathi yeSoviet. Wayengawagqoki amasudi angafakwanga kahle athandwa iningi labantu baseNyakatho Korea, kodwa amahembe anesitayela saseNtshonalanga, futhi kanye nendlela yakhe yokukhuluma yesiShayina ecishe iphelele, wazenza wathandeka eqenjini - noma okungenani abesifazane, ababemhleka. amahlaya akhe.
Wasikhwelisa ebhasini eliwubukhazikhazi, elaphenduka ikilasi lethu izinsuku ezintathu ezalandela. Isifundo sosuku lokuqala, njengoba sasigibele sisuka e-USS Pueblo eyayithunjiwe siya ePyongyang Metro, sasihlanganisa “ubuhle obuthathu” baseNyakatho Korea: uhlaza, umoya, nabesifazane. Njengokungathi uyaqaphela, omunye wabesifazane bakhe abasha abathandwayo wathi, “Awusoze wazibona isibhakabhaka esiluhlaza njengalesi e-Beijing.”
Ngosuku lwesi-2, wagxila “ekukhululekeni okuthathu” komphakathi waseKorea: imfundo, ukunakekelwa kwezempilo kanye nezindlu. Ngenxa yokuthi sibe nohambo lwebhasi lwamahora amabili oluya eMt. Myohyang, ekhaya enqabeni enamagumbi angu-400 lapho izipho eziya e-DPRK ziboniswa ngokuziqhenya, wamema imibuzo. “Kungakanani okusanhlamvu okwabelwa isisebenzi ngasinye ngenyanga?” kubuza uWang Zhelu, uthisha waseDalian.
“Amakhilogremu angamashumi amabili nesikhombisa,” kuphendula uMnu. Ju, okwaholela ekukhonondeni kokugunyazwa yiqembu elase likhule lithenga amakhuphoni okudla (ngokohlelo lwe-UN lwe-World Food Programme, inani langempela licishe libe ngamakhilogremu amahlanu, inyama itholakala kuphela. ngamaholide kazwelonke).
“Kuthiwani ngamafulethi – makhulu kangakanani?” kubuza uZhao Heping, unjiniyela wendiza yezempi osewathatha umhlalaphansi waseBeijing.
“Amakhulu ayisishiyagalombili kuya ku-1,500 wamamitha-skwele. Lokhu kwabangela ukukhononda okwengeziwe, njengoba esinye isakhamuzi saseBeijing sathi lokho kuzoba kukhulu kunendawo yakhe.
"Sifaka kuphi isicelo sokuhlala lapha?" omunye wahleka, encokola.
Njengoba uhleko luphela, uLiu Yi, isishoshovu samalungelo abantu saseHong Kong, wabuza, “Ungakwazi ukuthenga imoto?”
Lokhu bekungabonakali kuskripthi sikaJu. Ngemva kokuthula isikhathi eside, waphendula, “Yebo, uma uyisihlabani samafilimu.” Wabe esesitshela ukuthi siphumule.
Kamuva ngalolo suku, esidlweni sasemini sezifundo eziyisithupha, isimo sasicishe sibe muncu. “Ukuphila akunazinkathazo lapha,” kusho omunye wabadayisi bezindlu. "E-China, kusukela osukwini lokuqala lwesikole sojahidada, ukhathazekile."
Noma kunjalo, kwabanye babahambi, kwase kubonakala ukuthi enye yezinhloso eziphambili zabaseNyakatho Korea ngohambo kwakungekona ukwenza imali ($ 350 ngezinsuku ezine ezihlanganisiwe), kodwa ukukholisa amaShayina ukuthi izwe lama-30. abalimi abayizigidi ngandlela-thile bazuze ipharadesi lesisebenzi sokugcina.
Ekupheleni koSuku lwesi-3, amaShayina amaningi, nakuba ayetotoswa ukudla namakhonsathi, ayeqala ukungaphumuli. Inqwaba yemithetho elawula ukuthi yini abangathwebula nalapho abangaya khona kwakuyinto ababengakaze bayibone kusukela kuNguquko Yezamasiko eminyakeni engama-30 edlule. Futhi bageja omakhalekhukhwini babo (abagcinwe ngabasebenzela inkambiso baseNyakatho Korea emngceleni, kanye namaphasipoti ethu).
Ukuphanga kwami - ngingagadiwe kanye - phakathi kwedolobha lasePyongyang ngenye intambama kwaletha okwako ukuzidela. Kumafidi angu-6, amayintshi angu-4 futhi ngidlala isikibha esithi “I heart Brasil”, angizange ngigqame, futhi abantu baseNyakatho Korea engadlula, bekhathazekile ngokuxhunyaniswa nomuntu wangaphandle, bagwema konke ukubheka ngamehlo.
Ihora lonke, ngathola amazwibela angavamile okuphila kwansuku zonke eNyakatho Korea. Okwangimangazayo, bekungahlukanga kangako kunedolobha lakho elijwayelekile lomhlaba wesithathu. Izimo zaziqinile, yebo, kodwa hhayi ngendlela engavamile njengoba abaningi baseNtshonalanga bengacabanga. Bekukhona abadayisi baseceleni komgwaqo, amatroli kagesi, amabhayisikili nezitolo ezingomakhelwane.
Kwakukhona futhi umehluko owodwa ophawulekayo: umuzwa ongenakuqhathaniswa we-paranoia nokulawula kuka-Stalinish. Thatha usizi lwami lwamahora ayisithupha ne-Public Security Bureau. Ngabanjwa inethi yabo lapho ngithwebula izithombe ezingathi sína zemakethe yasendlini ephilayo, imakethe yamahhala eyivelakancane emsebenzini. Kuvele kuvele abesifazane abadla izambane likapondo begqoke izingubo ezipinki.
Banginikela emaphoyiseni ayesatshwayo, angidedela kuphela ngemva kokuthola ukuzigxeka okwakuyokwenza uMao aziqhenye. Kodwa lokhu kwakungeke kube ukuxoxa kwami kokugcina neziphathimandla. Ngobusuku bangaphambi kohambo lwethu lwesitimela sibuyela e-China, u-Ju ohlale enobungani, umqondisi wethu, wenqaba ukuphuma egumbini lami lasehhotela waze wakwazi ukucinga imemori khadi “elahlekile” kukhamera yami.
Ngenhlanhla, engihlala naye ukhethe lesi sikhathi ukuthi aphume eshaweni. Ngokusobala uJu wanquma ukuthi lokhu kwakungaphezu kwamandla akhe futhi wahamba ebusuku.
Ngakusasa, sisendleleni ebuyela emuva, inqola yethu yesitimela yathula edolobheni elisemngceleni weNyakatho Korea, iSinuiju. Iqembu labantu baseNyakatho Korea, eligqoke ukukhathala kwezempi, layala wonke umuntu ukuthi akhiphe izikhwama zabo, abheke izithombe ezingatholakalanga ngendlela engafanele.
Ekugcineni, ngokuhlokoma kweqembu lethu, isitimela sathubeleza sisuka esiteshini, siya ngasezibani ezikhanyayo, iKentucky Fried Chickens, namahutha abashayeli bamatekisi abangenasineke ababesilindile ngaphesheya komfula eChina.
