Ukwenza Umhlaba Ube Muhle: Indoda Eyodwa Egqoke Kahle Ngesikhathi

Abesilisa. Ukubheka Okuhle Ekuhambeni

Izikhala eziningi zigcwele izincomo zokuthi ungayithuthukisa kanjani imigwaqo yasedolobheni, wakhe kabusha indawo yethu yokuhlala, ukhiphe amakhabethe ethu namakhabethe, nokuthi ungakusebenzisa kanjani kabusha - konke. Kodwa-ke, asikho isikhala esanele noma isikhathi esinikelwe ekwenzeni umhlaba ube muhle ngokwengeziwe, ngokuthuthukisa ukubonakala kwezinhlobo ezibusa iplanethi… amadoda!

Ngokwezibalo zomhlaba, baningi abesilisa kunabesifazane emhlabeni namuhla. I-UN ilinganisela (2017) kukhona cishe amadoda angama-3,776,294,273 (3.77 billion), uma kuqhathaniswa nabalinganiselwa ku-3,710,295,643 (3.71 billion), abesifazane. Kulinganiselwa ukuthi abafana abayi-107 bazalelwa amantombazane ayi-100 azalwa (National Academy of Science, 2015). Ngoba baningi babo ke “us” - kungumsebenzi wabo kanye nomsebenzi wabo ukwenza umhlaba ube yindawo enhle ngokwengeziwe!

Ukudluliswa kwesambatho

Izindaba ezinhle kakhulu ukuthi amadoda ayaqaphela ukubukeka kwawo futhi ngenxa yemithombo yezokuxhumana kanye nokuthanjiswa "kwamakhodi okugqoka," abafana bafaka isikhathi esiningi nomzamo wokubukeka kahle. Yize kungakafanele ngizibonele ngawami, ucwaningo luthola ukuthi abesilisa benza umzamo wokuthuthukisa ukubukeka kwabo futhi abafana empeleni bafunda omagazini, bavakashela amawebhusayithi, babuke imithombo yezokuxhumana, futhi babe nentshisekelo ngezingubo abazigqokile.

Le nzalo entsha ifakazelwa ukukhula kwamaphesenti ayi-14 embonini okulindeleke ukuthi ifinyelele ku- $ 33 billion ngonyaka we-2020; empeleni, izingubo zabesilisa zikhula ngokushesha kunezingubo zabesifazane kanye nemakethe yokunethezeka.

Amadoda akhombisa intshisekelo ngemibala, amaphethini, ukuxuba okwenzelwe ubuchwepheshe, ukuvuna ngokwesiko, nokubamba amathuba okudala atholakala kungakhathalekile iminyaka, imali noma umsebenzi.

Sibonga Imboni

Iqiniso lokuthi abaklami bezingubo zabesilisa bahlinzeka ngemigqa yezingubo ezingenekayo, ezithokozisayo nezinethezekile kuvumela abesilisa ukuthi bamukele ngokuqapha umqondo wokuthi "imfashini" umqondo omuhle. Njengoba bengakhiyelwa kwisitayela esithile futhi "bavunyelwe" ukuzakhela eyabo incazelo yokuthi "bagqoke kahle," kungenzeka ukuthi kube khona umfana onesitayela ekugcineni kohambo lokuthenga.

Abesilisa Nezitolo Ezinkulu

Ukudabula phakathi kwanoma iyiphi inxanxathela yezitolo, emakethe yezitolo noma emgwaqweni wezitolo futhi kuzobonakala ukuthi inani lendawo yaphansi, inani lezitolo, kanye nenani lempahla okwamanje enikelwe abathengi bezingubo zabesilisa kulinganiselwe, uma kuqhathaniswa nabathengi bezimpahla zabesifazane. Umehluko okhona ubangelwa ukuthi abesifazane ngokomlando basebenzise isikhathi esiningi bethenga; noma kunjalo, lokhu kuyashintsha.

Ucwaningo lubonisa ukuthi amaphesenti ayi-17 kuphela amadoda ocwaningweni lukazwelonke ayekujabulela ngempela ukuthenga; kodwa-ke, amaphesenti angama-29 "avumile ngandlela thile" ukuthenga, kanti amaphesenti angama-37 avuma ukuthi azothenga imfashini. Ukuze kubhekwane nalolu shintsho esimweni sengqondo, kunesidingo sokuthi abathengisi abathanda imfashini bahlale njalo bazi ngentshisekelo ekhulayo yamadoda ngemibala, izitayela namathrendi. Ngokwesiko, izembatho zabesilisa sezishintshe kancane kunezingubo zabesifazane kepha lokhu kuyashintsha njengoba umjikelezo wempilo yabesilisa ucindezela kakhulu.

Izinqumo ezinolwazi

Bobabili abathengi besilisa nabesifazane banquma ukuthi bazothenga ini ngokuya ngemininingwane etholwe kubantu abahlonishwayo, kufaka phakathi omama, odadewabo, abafowabo, obaba, osebenza nabo kanye namaqembu abakuwo, noma abafisa ukuba nawo. Ucwaningo luphakamisa ukuthi imithombo yolwazi engaphakathi kuwe (okungukuthi, oshade naye noma ontanga) iyasetshenziswa lapho kwenziwa isinqumo sokuthenga into ebonakalayo nephakeme yobungozi bezenhlalo, njengesudi. Abathengi besilisa bebesethubeni elikhulu lokufuna imininingwane kubangani kunakwabanye abangenakufana kangako nabo.

Eminye imithombo yolwazi lomkhiqizo ifaka izinkomba ezingezona ezomuntu ezivezwe ekukhangiseni, ekubonisweni kwesitolo nasekusebenzisaneni komthengisi. Abathengi besilisa abancane bathembele kakhulu emithonjeni yolwazi lomuntu siqu kunabasebenzisi abadala besilisa abadala. Abathengi besilisa abadala abathenga kaningi izinto zezingubo bavame ukusebenzisa izinkomba zokuphromotha kaningi kunabathengi besilisa abadala abathenga kaningi.

Ukwanda Kokuthengiswa Kwe-inthanethi

Phakathi kwekota yokuqala ka-2013 no-2016, abathengisi bezimpahla zokugqoka abaphezulu abayishumi (kufaka phakathi iBarneys, iSaks neHarrods) bakhule ngamaphesenti ayi-10 online. Abathengisi abakhulu abayi-100, (kubandakanya iBrooks Brothers, uTommy Hilfiger noTed Baker), bakhule ngamaphesenti angama-10.

AbakwaReuters bathola ukuthi izingubo zasemgwaqeni kanye nokushintshela kokujwayelekile yikhona okushayela ukuthengiswa kwezingubo zabesilisa, kusuka kwisabelomali kuya kokunethezeka; ngokwesibonelo, iqoqo lokuqala lomklami uVirgil Abloh wezingubo zabesilisa noLouis Vuitton namateku nguDior noSacai.

Imboni yamadoda yezicathulo nezembatho izobiza ngaphezu kuka- $ 460 billion ngonyaka ka-2020, okuyisikhathi esiphindwe ka-25 kwisabelomali sonyaka seNASA. Isiko lamateki, lihlanganiswe nokugqoka okuxegayo namakhono obuchwepheshe aseshintshe izingubo zabesilisa, mhlawumbe unomphela. Amadoda aqaphela imfashini / isitayela akudingeki akhombise ukunambitheka kwawo okuhle ngokulungiswa njengoba ukuphakama kwephrofayili yezimpahla ezisebenzayo kusho amathuba amaningi njengoba izinqumo zihambisana nempilo yazo yokusebenza.

Ukufinyelela i-Guy

Abathengi abaningi bamanje bathola imikhiqizo nemikhiqizo ngenxa yemithombo yezokuxhumana; kodwa-ke, imikhiqizo nemikhiqizo yezimpahla zabesilisa iye yaphuza ukubona lesi siteshi. Bebengathumeli okuqukethwe ku-Instagram (lapho amaphesenti angama-24 amadoda aseMelika ekhuthele khona), yize uHugo Boss noSupreme bekhonjwe njengabanokuqukethwe kwe-Instagram “okuyisibonelo” kuyilapho uBronioni noDunhill bethathwa “njengabasalele emuva.”

Ukudlulela ngale kwe-Instagram, Facebook ne-YouTube - kufanele kubonakale kuphi izingubo zabesilisa? Izincomo zifaka phakathi iReddit (abasebenzisi bangabesilisa kakhulu kanti isayithi liphethe inqwaba yezithangami eziqondene nemfashini). Yize Abathonya belahlekelwa amandla abo, basenamandla amakhulu njengosaziwayo, abasubathi, nabaculi. Kubalulekile ukuthi wazi ukuthi amadoda mancane amathuba okuthi aphendule izaphulelo nokuthengiswa okukhethekile futhi anentshisekelo yokuqukethwe nezincomo zomlomo.

EMarkt @ Javits

Kubathengi nabathengisi bezingubo zabesilisa, iJavits Show ebalulekile nguMrket, othathwa njengomunye wemicimbi yefeshini esezingeni eliphezulu kakhulu "yemikhiqizo yezingubo zabesilisa eqondayo," kanye "nokuwukuphela kombukiso e-US wokukhanyisa ... izingxenye zomhlaba wonke," kufaka phakathi iM Made in Italy, kanye IBrits eNew York.

Iphrojekthi igxila ezingutsheni zesilisa zesimanje futhi ingumcimbi okhetheke kakhulu wemfashini wama-premium denim, namaqoqo womklami. Umbukiso uyithuba elihle labathengisi ekuthengiseni nasekufinyeleleni amaqoqo abo wezingubo zabesilisa - endaweni eyodwa.

Kwakuyinto ehehayo ezweni elihle lezingubo zamadoda zesimanje futhi kwangenza ngabheka phambili ekuboneni ubuhle obengeziwe emigwaqweni yaseNew York, ezikhumulweni zezindiza zasekhaya nakwamanye amazwe, nokubukeka kangcono emabhasini nasezitimeleni ezihamba ngaphansi komhlaba eManhattan.

Izinketho ezikhethiwe ze-Global Guy In-transit

Uxhumano lwaseFrance

Kwaqalwa ngo-1972 e-UK ngu-Stephen Marks inhloso ye-French Connection: “Ukwakha izingubo ezifashini ezenziwe kahle ezikhanga emakethe ebanzi.” Ungawukhumbula umkhiqizo womkhankaso nokuqoqwa kwawo kwesikhangiso se- “FCUK fashion” ka-1990s, okungenzeka ukuthi kwethulwe kabusha nge-Urban Outfitters. Ngenkathi ngibhekabheka eqoqweni ngabona ukuthi kuzoba lula kakhulu kumfana (wanoma yimuphi ubudala) ukuklama ikhabethe eliphelele ngokugxilisa ukunaka kwakhe konke ezingutsheni zeFrench Connection.

IBarbour

UJ.Barbour & Sons Ltd. yaqala ngo-1894 nguJohn Barbouin owayenikele ngokunethezeka nempilo yaseBrithani. Namuhla, ibhizinisi lesizukulwane lesihlanu eliphethwe ngumndeni lihlala eSimonside, eSouth Shields, e-UK. Le nkampani ikhiqiza futhi ithengise izingubo zangaphandle zikakotini, ezilungele ukugqoka, izicathulo nezinsiza zabesilisa, abesifazane, izingane nezinja. Izembatho zikhombisa amanani ayingqayizivele asemaphandleni aseBrithani angenisa ubuhlakani, ubugagu nobukhazikhazi ezingutsheni ezingeyona imfashini kuphela kodwa futhi ziyasebenza.

UNico Zappiello

Ngihlala ngiqaphela izicathulo kuqala lapho ngikhipha umfana ebhasini noma esitimeleni. Uma izicathulo zishibhile, zidinga ukukhanya noma zidinga kakhulu noma zilungiswa, asikho isidingo sokubheka phambili. Izicathulo zikaNico Zappiello ziyesabeka, futhi uma umfana enengqondo enhle yokuzibeka ezinyaweni zakhe, khona-ke ngifuna ukuqala ingxoxo. Ikhuthazwe ubuciko bomhlaba wakudala, le nkampani ihlanganisa isitayela, induduzo nobuhle.

Izicathulo eziningi zenziwa kusetshenziswa indlela yeBlake Rapid Construction, okuvumela ukwenziwa kwesicathulo esiphansi esiphindwe kabili "esinokuphefumula" okuholela esicathulweni sokukhanya esikhanyayo, esiguquguqukayo. Iqoqo lesi-8 kuye kwelesi-8 lisebenzisa iBologna Construction (sacchetto) eliphefumulelwe ngama-moccasins avela eNyakatho Melika. Amathe anamathiselwe engxenyeni eyodwa, enza i-sock yesikhumba ezungeze unyawo, okwakha indawo yonyawo eguquguqukayo futhi ethokomele.

UJohn Smedley

Inkampani kaJohn Smedley yaqala e-UK (eDerbyshire) ngo-1784 futhi iyinkampani endala yokukhiqiza emhlabeni. Ngokomlando, inkampani yaziwa njengomsunguli we- "Long Johns," eyenziwe komunye wemishini yokuqala yokwaluka ephelele.

Ngama-1950s - 60s, lo mkhiqizo wawuthandwa nguMarilyn Monroe, u-Audrey Hepburn kanye neBeatles kwathi ngawo-1980 wamukelwa ngabaqambi baseBrithani uDame Vivienne Westwood noSir Paul Smith. Ngo-2012 inkampani yanikezwa iRoyal Warant of Appointment njengo “Manufacturer of Fine Knitwear” nguHer Majness Queen Elizabeth II.

Inhlangano isebenzisa ukotini waseSea Island, uboya obengeziwe obuhle beMerino, ikheshi kanye nosilika. I "Mainline Collection" ifaka amahembe wepolo (awashintshiwe kusukela ngo-1932) ngomugqa wayo wamanje we-unisex "Singular" odlula izizukulwane.

I-Naadam

INaadam yenza amajezi e-cashmere futhi mahle ngendlela eyisimanga futhi ayatholakala ngemibala eminingi kangangokuthi kulula ukugqoka ijezi elihlukile nsuku zonke inyanga. I-cashmere iyathandeka futhi inokunethezeka, ithambile futhi ihlala isikhathi eside futhi ithola isikhathi esithe xaxa.

Ngokusho kukaNaadam, izimbuzi ezihamba phambili zeCashmere zizalwa futhi zikhuliswe eMongolia. Uboya balawa maswidi buthathwe embuzini emhlophe yeZalaa Jinst, okuwukuphela kohlobo olumhlophe ngokuphelele lwembuzi ye-cashmere eMongolia futhi etholakala eGobi Deseret yaseMongolia (amamayela ayi-400 ukusuka emgwaqeni oseduzane).

Izimbuzi zakwaCashmere zikhula kahle ezindaweni ezibandayo nezimbi. Ukuze ziphile, zikhula imicu emide, emihle ukuze zivikeleke. Abelusi baseNaadam bahlanganisa imicu ngoba ukucheba izimbuzi kuletha ingcindezi ezimbuzini. Cishe yonke i-cashmere etholakala eMongolia ingokwemvelo, kepha akuyona yonke i-cashmere egcina imvelo imile. Isikhwama seNaadam Gobi Revival Fund sisekela imindeni eyizi-1000 yokwelusa imihambuma eMongolia futhi sihlinzekela ukunakekelwa kwezilwane kwezimbuzi ezingaphezu kwama-250,000.

Ngenkathi i-cashmere kungafanele ifakwe emshinini wokuwasha, ingagezwa ngesandla kusetshenziswa i-baby shampoo.

I-Ploumanac'h

Lo mkhiqizo wokugqoka wase-Italy uqanjwe ngegama ledolobha elincane eliseBrittany, eFrance, lapho imibala yogu lwayo ikhombisa amandla oLwandle i-Atlantic. IPloumanac'h izinze e-Arenzano, idolobha elisogwini lwase-Italiya futhi izingubo zidaywe kusetshenziswa uhlelo olusha olonga amanzi futhi luvimbele ukusetshenziswa kokushisa. Umkhiqizo uyamangalisa ngokuphelele futhi amahembe amaningi angaphansi kwekhabethe lawo wonke umuntu.

I-Vestrucci

IVestrucci ithathwa njengenye yezindlu zokuthunga ezinkulu zikaFlorence kanti uSartoria Vestrucci uba ngumsiki wengqephu azikhethele yena "wejet-setting, glob-trotting playboy" "ohlale eba yindoda ebukekayo kunabo bonke ekamelweni."

Ngokwe-webhusayithi yenkampani, ukwakhiwa kweVestrucci okuxhumanisa “ubuciko bokwakha nobuqotho obenziwe kabusha be-degage” futhi obenza uphawu luhluke kakhulu. Engikwaziyo ukuthi lapho, ngemuva kokuhamba amahora amaningi ngamakhulu ezikhala ngikhombisa izingubo eziwubukhazikhazi zabesilisa, bekufanele ngime eVestrucci, ngisondele eduze nangamabhantshi nothayi, ngithathe isithombe ngemuva kwesithombe salezi zingubo ezinhle ngendlela emangalisayo . Manje engikudingayo nje ukuthi umfana ogqoke iVestrucci… uhlobo lomuntu ongenaso isifiso sokukhanyela kepha ufuna nje ukuthi wazi ukuthi uhlakaniphe ngokwanele ukuthi angakwazi ukugqoka ngendlela engenasici.

Sock it Kimi

Le nkampani, ezinze ePortland, e-Oregon, yaqala ngemakethe yangaphandle ngo-2004. Namuhla, inkampani isebenza abantu abangama-40 +, yakha imiklamo yokuqala engaphezu kuka-400 futhi isebenza ngama-akhawunti angaphezu kuka-4000 kanye ne-webstore eku-inthanethi. Ngemuva kokuthi ngilinganise izicathulo, ngibheka amasokisi. Uma umfana enesibindi nomqondo omuhle wombala wokugqoka amasokisi amahle / ahlukile… Ngiyazi ukuthi uzokwazi ukuhlanganisa amagama ambalwa ukuze akhe umusho.

Okuqaphelekayo

Ngiyethemba ukuthi ukukhonjiswa okuhle kwezingubo zabesilisa embukisweni kaMrket kuyinkomba enhle yezikhombisi-ndlela ezintsha zemfashini yamadoda; izinzuzo zizoqongelela sonke!

Ngemininingwane eyengeziwe, Chofoza lapha.

© UDkt Elinor Garely. Lo mbhalo we-copyright, ofaka nezithombe, awunakukhiqizwa kabusha ngaphandle kwemvume ebhaliwe evela kumbhali.