Lapho ngithenga amamitha angu-12,500 67 ngaphezu kogu lolwandle emakethe engekude neLake Titicaca, ngathola ukuthi ngangingathenga i-llama cishe ngamaRandi angu-60, iqebelengwane lobulongwe benkomo ngamasenti angu-30 nekati ngamasenti angu-XNUMX.
Imfuyo eyinqaba kanye nobulongwe akuwona ilukuluku elikhulu umuntu ahlangana nalo lapha, nokho. Abantu base-Uro basePeru baye bahlala phezu kwamanzi eLake Titicaca kusukela kudala ngaphambi kokuqala kwempucuko yama-Incan ezinkulungwaneni zeminyaka edlule. Futhi lokho kuphezu kwechibi ngokoqobo.
Abantu bendawo bakha iziqhingi zomhlanga abakha kuzo izindlu zomhlanga nalapho behamba khona ngezikebhe ezinhle zomhlanga. Badoba, baqoqe imifino edliwayo entantayo futhi babambe noma badubule izinyoni ukuze bathole ukudla. Lena indlela yabo yokuphila, nakuba abantu abasha sebeqala ukuthuthela ogwini nangale kwayo.
Mhlawumbe intsha ifuna uzinzo. Ngakuthola kuyinselele ukuhamba eziqhingini ezincane ezinomhlanga osogwini, ikakhulukazi ngaphandle kwesithiyo esikuvimbela ukuba ungasheleli emanzini aneqhwa. Nakuba izakhamuzi zakulesi siqhingi zihlala zishintsha ungqimba olungaphezulu lomhlanga, kwaziwa ukuthi izingane ziyawa lapho umhlanga ongaphansi kwalesi siqhingi ubola. Iziqu zikagamthilini eziwugqinsi zigxilise iziqhingi phansi kwechibi.
Ngolunye usuku olucwathile lwasebusika ngo-July, indoda yase-Uro nendodana yayo bagibela mina nomyeni wami esikhumulweni semikhumbi esiseduze neHotela i-Titlaka elibheke Bay of Puno, lapho sasihlala khona. Isibhakabhaka namanzi kwakuluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, futhi izintaba zaseBolivia ezihuqwe yiqhwa zazicwebezela buqamama njengoba sasintanta sisuka endlini yethu esebhishi elise-Hamptons egcwele izihambi siya ezweni leziqhingi zomhlanga, phezu kwezindlu zomhlanga ezibukeka zintekenteke kakhulu impisi embi. angabubula kalula futhi awaphefumise phansi.
Amabhaluni we-Bubble-Gum
Lapho sifika kwesinye seziqhingi ezincane, mhlawumbe ezingamafidi angu-50 ubude, sathola isiko lasendulo kanye nezingane ezifutha amabhaluni e-bubble-gum aphinki. Owesifazane osekhulile owayegqoke izingubo ezimahhadlahhadla, ezinemibala yothingo wancelisa ingane yakhe buthule. Izingane zazidlala umdlalo ofana nethegi njengoba umhlanga oswakeme wawugobhoza ngaphansi kwezinyawo zazo. Kwavunguza umoya obandayo esiqhingini.
Inganekwane ithi u-Uro wokugcina onegazi elimsulwa wafa eminyakeni engama-50 edlule. Namuhla, izakhi zabo zofuzo zincane kakhulu, ama-Uro avame ukushada nabantu bendawo abangama-Aymara namaQuechua.
Njengoba ngangibuka ngisesiqhingini, iChibi iTiticaca lalibonakala liqhubeka phakade. Ichibi eliphakeme kunawo wonke emhlabeni okuhamba kuzo ulwandle ulwandle olukhulu oluphakathi nezwe olusukela eBolivia. Ukuhamba ngomkhumbi usuka ePuno uye engxenyeni yogu lwaseBolivia eseduze nenhloko-dolobha yaseLa Paz kuwuhambo lwamakhilomitha angaphezu kuka-100 (amakhilomitha angu-160). Umngcele wala mazwe womabili uphakathi nendawo echibini.
Lowo mzila wasemanzini wenza iLake Titicaca indawo ematasa ebusuku, lapho abashushumbisi bewela ngezikebhe ezincane, behamba ngezinkanyezi futhi bephethe izimpahla zaseBolivia ezinenani eliphansi ukuze bazithengise ezimakethe zendawo ePeru.
'Konke okuthengiswayo'
Ngokukhukhula kokungeniswa kwamanye amazwe ngokungemthetho, imakethe eJuliaca, ePeru - lapho ngabona khona amakati ashibhile - iyadlondlobala ngamaSonto.
“Ukuthengiswa kwemali. Konke ukukhwabanisa,” kusho umqondisi wami, uJulio Suano.
“Bashushumbisa iphepha lasendlini yangasese?” Ngibuzile.
“Impela,” esho. “Nezithuthuthu nama-crackers aseChina. Negesi. Igesi ingamathasi ayisithupha (cishe u-$1.93) ilitha eBolivia namasoli angu-15 (cishe amaRandi angu-4.83) ilitha lapha.”
Ngakusasa sahamba ngomkhumbi saya esiqhingini esihle saseTaquile. Lesi isiqhingi sangempela, samatshe acwebile kanye namasimu acijile akhiwe ama-Inca; amasimu asagolide, inhlabathi ecebile ensundu enemisele nezihlahla ezivuthuluka eziluhlaza.
Ngeza ezindlini ezinophahla olubomvu, futhi ibingase ikhushulwe emoyeni isuka eTuscany, nakuba ingenagesi nezimoto. USuano uthe izakhamuzi zaseziqhingini zazihlukanisiwe nesiko lesimanje kwaze kwaba ngawo-1950.
Indwangu 'Imisebenzi Yobuciko'
Umnotho kaTaquile usekelwe esikweni elide lokweluka izindwangu ezikhetheke kakhulu kangangokuthi eminyakeni emine edlule i-Unesco yamemezela lesi siqhingi nobuciko baso njengenye yezindawo ezingu-43 “Zobuciko Bobuciko Bomlomo Namagugu Angaphatheki Obuntu.” Baluka izinto zabo ezimibalabala ezinsimbini ezingaguquki nezihamba ngezinyawo ezisukela ezikhathini zangaphambi kweSpanishi.
Sakhukhumala umkhondo wokubuyela emuva esiqongweni sesiqhingi ukuze sibone amasampula emisebenzi yobuciko. U-Miguel Cruz Qispe, omunye wabaluki be-Taquile abadume kakhulu, wabingelela isikebhe sethu wabe esebopha izitebhisi zamatshe ezingu-535 ezingenye indlela eya phezulu. Waphinde wasibingelela esiqongweni, engaphelelwanga ngisho nakude umoya ngemva kokuphila kokuqwala ezindaweni eziphakeme.
Abesilisa, abesifazane nezingane bayaluka futhi baluke ndawonye, futhi bagqoke izingubo zendabuko abazenzayo. Abaluki be-Taquile baziwa kakhulu nge-chullo, isigqoko esilukiwe esigqokwa amadoda amakhulu eminyaka ayisithupha edlule.
I-chullo ebomvu nemhlophe ibonisa ukutholakala komshado, kuyilapho zonke izindlela ezibomvu sezithathiwe. Abantu baseziqhingini baziwa nangebhande lekhalenda eligqokwa amadoda, elibonisa izinkathi zonyaka, imisebenzi yokulima namasiko endawo unyaka wonke.
Inani eliphezulu, Akukho Haggle
Amanani aphezulu ePeru. Ibhande lekhalenda eliyinkimbinkimbi lingabiza ngaphezu kuka-$100, futhi kubonakala sengathi kukhona ukuzimisela okuncane ukuthengiselana. Kwenye indawo ngithenge isikhwama esenziwe ngesandla kowesifazane oseceleni komgwaqo ngama-$5. Kuyavunywa, kwakungewona umsebenzi wobuciko oqokwe yi-UNESCO.
Ihhotela elisha i-Titlaka, ihhotela le-boutique elinamasudi angu-18, liya kude ukuze libhekane nokuntuleka kwezindawo zokuhlala ezinhle eLake Titicaca. Ingaphakathi le-minimalist linikeza ingemuva elihle lobuciko bomdabu obucacile obuqhakaza kuwo wonke amakhona.
Indlu ngayinye inobhavu omkhulu wokucwiliswa emanzini, olungele imisipha ebuhlungu ngemva kokukhuphuka i-Taquile, namafasitela amakhulu abuka ichibi. Izinga lika-$552-$725 umuntu ngamunye ngobusuku lihlanganisa ibhodi eligcwele nawo wonke ama-cocktails, iziphuzo zasendlini kanye newayini elihambisana nokudla, kanye nohambo lwesikebhe oluya eziqhingini kanye nokuvakasha okuqondisiwe kokubuka indawo namadolobhana. Izivakashi ezibhukhelwe ubusuku obubili zizothola ubusuku obengeziwe.
Amakayak nezikebhe zoseyili ziyatholakala ukuze zisetshenziswe izivakashi. Kanjalo namathangi omoya-mpilo, aphulukisa umyeni wami emizuzwini emihlanu ngemva kokugula ebusuku.
