Izindlu zobuntwana noma zokusebenza zabadwebi abaningi abadumile emhlabeni manje sezingamabhodwe oju ezivakashi. Ukugcwala kwezivakashi ezilambele ubuciko e-Monet's Giverny kwafika engqondweni yami njengoba ngangizulazula, ngedwa, endlini ka-Marc Chagall. Ngaphandle kwegama lakhe elibizwa nge-Francophone, u-Chagall wayehlala e-bungalow phansi komzila othule owenziwe nge-cobbled, otholakala e-Vitebsk emanzini angaphandle kwezokuvakasha eBelarus.
U-Chagall wazalelwa edolobheni ngo-1887, futhi wachitha isikhathi esiningi sobusha bakhe ku-11 Pokrovskaya Street, izibulo ezinganeni eziyisishiyagalolunye. Uzoxolelwa ngokungakwazi lokhu ngoba, ngokomlando, izwe lakubo lenze okuncane ukukhuthaza imvelaphi yakhe. Ngesikhathi ngihlala eBelarus ngo-1989, kuseseSoviet Union, uChagall wayengabonakali, kodwa engumuntu ongeyena umuntu, nakuba engakaze afinyelele isimo sesitha esisemthethweni sombuso. Ngisho nokubuyekezwa kwakamuva, kuka-Andrew Motion, kwe-biography yakamuva ye-Chagall akusho lutho ngemvelaphi yakhe yaseBelarus.
U-Chagall wayengumJuda wamaHasidic, okungenzeka achaze ngokwengxenye isiBelarus, futhi ngaphambi kwalokho, ukungaboni ngaso linye kombuso waseSoviet ngakuye. Ngemva kwenguquko yaseRussia waba umqondisi we-Art Academy eVitebsk, kodwa ngokushesha wahamba waya eFrance.
Ukuvakasha endlini yakhe kuyinto ethokozisayo, futhi ethinta inhliziyo. Izindawo zaseVitebsk zathonya kakhulu imidwebo yakhe, equkethe izindlu ezincane, uthango, izilwane kanye nezingane. Lezi zindawo zafaniswa ngokubaluleka umbhali wakhe wokuphila kwabantu, uJackie Wullschlager, nethonya iDublin eyaba nalo kuJames Joyce. UChagall wake wathi: “Asikho nesisodwa isithombe enginaso, lapho ungeke ubone khona ucezu lomgwaqo wami iPokrovskaya.
Ngemuva kwengaphandle elimangalisayo lendlu yakhe, ukubuyiselwa okucatshangelwayo, uma kuncike kubhajethi, kwenzeke. Ingxenye yendlu bekuyisitolo sendawo esidayisa ukudla futhi izinyathelo zakho zizwakala ezitezi zokhuni njengoba udlula amakhethini anamakhethini abomvu kanye nephephadonga lomhlambi. Kunamagumbi amabili nje kuphela, nekhishi. Isibonisi si-spartan kodwa imidwebo namaphrinti aveza amazwibela asondelene nawe ukuthi impilo yomndeni kumele ngabe yayinjani. Kunemidwebo kayise elele etafuleni lokudlela, i-samovar ebilayo kanye nezithandani ezihlwitha i-hunga. Ezinye izithombe zibonisa u-Chagall no-Picasso ngo-1906, kanye no-Chagall nomkakhe wokuqala u-Bella nendodakazi yabo u-Ida eFrance, ngaphambi nje kokuba babuyele enguqulweni yaseRussia.
Akukho lutho olubonisa ukuthi wayengumJuda, akukho lutho ngesiNgisi, nokuhumusha okuncane, ngisho nangesiRashiya noma isiBelarus, ngakho-ke uzodinga ukwenza umsebenzi wakho wesikole ngaphambi kokuba ufike. Ngemuva kwendlu kunengadi encane, ebukekayo enethusi le-Chagall elibiyelwe ngothango olugobile olunsundu noluluhlaza.
Enye indawo okufanele uyibone i-Chagall eVitebsk i-Chagall Art Museum, enqamula isigodi esikhulu esiqoshwe umfula iWestern Dvina. Ixhaswe yi-European Union, ayinakho ukulawula izinga lomoya okufanele, okusho ukuthi imifanekiso ka-Chagall yekhophi ye-Gogol's Dead Souls igcinwa ngaphansi kweso isikhathi esiningi sonyaka. Ama-lithographs angamashumi amathathu esitezi esiphansi afaka phakathi ezinye zezithombe zophawu lokuhweba: amafiddle, izithandwa ezindiza esibhakabhakeni, i-Chagall kushimula. Ingxenye ehlukile inikezelwe emidwebeni yezindikimba zenkolo.
I-Vitebsk iphinde ibuyisele ukuhlola okwengeziwe. Konke kwacekelwa phansi phakathi neMpi Yezwe Yesibili, futhi okuwukuphela kwengxenye esele enkabeni yeVitebsk kusukela ngesikhathi sikaChagall yikota encane ezungeze iHholo Ledolobha, kusukela kuLenin Street kanye eduze nomgwaqo uSuvarova, lapho i-fin de siècle eyakhiwe ngezinsimbi zensimbi ezakhiwe phezu kwamavulandi alenga phezulu. .
Kwezinye izindawo, imigwaqo ebanzi yedolobha kanye nezakhiwo ezisebenzayo zibukeka sengathi zehliswe indiza efakwe kumabhulokhi kakhonkolo owakhiwe kusengaphambili, kodwa ziqhayisa ngokubukeka okuhle okunciphayo. Eduze kweChagall Art Museum kunesigodlo sombusi waseRussia. U-Napoleon uchithe iminyaka yakhe yokuzalwa engama-43 lapha, phakathi nomkhankaso ongemuhle wango-1812. (Itshe lesikhumbuzo leminyaka eyikhulu lomkhankaso limi phakathi nendawo yesigcawu esinezinkuni.) Namuhla lesi sakhiwo sinenkonzo yomshoshaphansi wendawo, nakuba bebonakala bejabule ngawe ukuba usithwebule. Njengakwamanye amadolobha aseBelarus, lena indawo yokuthatha izithombe zamanye amabhasi ambalwa asele e-Lenin nezinye izibalo zenkathi yamaSoviet ezisasele obala. Amagama emigwaqo afana ne-Sovetskaya ne-Kirov aletha umoya obandayo ongalindelekile kusukela esikhathini esidlule samaSoviet.
Nokho iVitebsk iyikhaya kungazelelwe elinye lamahhotela aphambili futhi anomusa endaweni eyayiyiSoviet Union. Iphethwe abanikazi abaphumelele, abasemhlabeni wonke, futhi amagumbi e-Hotel Eridan anothile futhi indawo yokudlela inhle kakhulu, enohlu lwewayini olusuka e-Georgia ukuya e-Australia.
Idolobhakazi linezakhiwo ezimbalwa eziphakeme, okusho ukuthi linokubukwa okuhle kakhulu kanye nesibhakabhaka esikhulu ukusuka ezindaweni eziphakeme njengebhuloho elinqamula usebe olumangalisayo, oluphezulu lweWestern Dvina. Eduze kwayo kune-Annunciation Church, enomklamo wayo wakudala waseByzantium wamabhulokhi e-limestone ahlukaniswe ngaphandle ngezitini ne-stucco. Iwukuphela kwesibonelo esisekhona sezakhiwo ezinjalo enyakatho yoLwandle Olumnyama. Umnyango olandelayo umi isonto elihle, elibuyiselwe, lamapulangwe le-Alexander Nevsky Orthodox, elaqala ngekhulu le-10.
Ngasuka eVitebsk ngebhasi, ngidlula izindlu zendabuko zamapulangwe zasePeskovatics, lapho uChagall azalelwa khona. Uhambo lwami oluqondisiwe aluzange lufake le kota, hhayi ngenxa yanoma iyiphi inzondo eqhubekayo e-Chagall kodwa ngaphezu kwalokho ngenxa yokuthi ezokuvakasha e-Belarus zihlala zisencane kakhulu. Lapha, ngokukhungathekisayo, kwakuyizindlu zamatshe ezinemibala egqamile uChagall ayezokwazi ukuzibona kusukela ebusheni bakhe, kanye namafreyimu acacile amafasitela aluhlaza, uthango oluhlelekile kanye nezingane ezincane zama-rag-tag. Bengifuna ukumisa ibhasi ngihlole. Kodwa ngandlela thize, ubunzima bokulandelela indawo ezihlala kuyo le ndoda babonakala buhambisana nemvelo exakile, engaqondakali yezithombe zayo zamanye amazwe.
Amaqiniso ahlangene
Ungafika kanjani lapho
I-Regent Holidays (0845 277 3317; regent-holidays.co.uk ) inikeza ubusuku obuhlanu e-Belarus kusuka ku-£ 654 ngomuntu ngamunye, ngokusekelwe ekwabelaneni okubili, okuhlanganisa izindiza ezisuka e-Heathrow ziya eMinsk nge-Prague ne-Czech Airlines; izindleko zesikhumulo sezindiza; ukudluliselwa; ubusuku obuthathu' B&B ehhotela lezinkanyezi ezintathu iPlaneta eMinsk; kanye nobusuku obubili B&B ehhotela lezinkanyezi ezintathu i-Eridan e-Vitebsk.
Ulwazi olunzulu
Ama-visa angatholakala kusengaphambili kunxusa laseBelarus (020-7938 3677; belembassy.org/uk) noma lapho ufika esikhumulweni sezindiza saseMinsk. Kufanele indawo yakho yokuhlala ibhukhelwe kusengaphambili kanye nencwadi yesimemo.
LOKHO ONGAKUTHATHE KULESI SIHLOKO:
- When I lived in Belarus in 1989, when it was still in the Soviet Union, Chagall was invisible, all but a non-person, though he never quite made it to the status of an official enemy of the state.
- Despite his Francophone name, Chagall lived in a bungalow down a quiet cobbled lane, which is to be found in Vitebsk in the international tourism backwater of Belarus.
- It was all but razed during the Second World War, and the only surviving part of central Vitebsk from Chagall’s time is a small quarter around the City Hall, from Lenin Street and along Suvarova Street, where fin de siècle wrought-iron railings top overhanging balconies.
