Ekuqaleni kwehlobo eledlule, ngaphambi kokuba ikharavani yesikhumbuzo sikaDarwin iqale, kwacaca ukuthi lo nyaka wawuzoba ngomunye wezivakashi ezimatasa kakhulu eziQhingini zaseGalapagos. Izibalo zabavakashi, ezakhuphuka zisuka ku-40,000 ngo-1990 zaya ngaphezu kwezi-140,000 ngo-2006, kulindeleke ukuthi zifinyelele ku-180,000.
Inani labantu liye landa ngendlela efanayo kule minyaka engu-20 edlule, cishe ngokuphindwe kane, lafinyelela ku-30,000. Abaningi abasanda kufika bebesebenza ngokungemthetho, futhi uhulumeni wase-Ecuadorean usanda kuqala ukubabuyisela ezweni.
Izimpukane zezithelo ziye zayiswa eziqhingini ezimbili, izitshalo zendabuko ezisongelayo, i-parasite itholakale kumaphengwini kanti i-Unesco ibhale i-Galapagos njengenye yezindawo Zamagugu Omhlaba ezithatha njengezisengozini. Nokho lezi ziqhingi ziseyilabhorethri ephilayo eyakhuthaza iDarwin, yingakho abaningi befuna ukuzivakashela.
U-Andrew Marr akasho ukuthi ezokuvakasha kufanele zime kodwa “kufanele zibe nomkhawulo ngandlela thize” futhi “zisezingeni eliphakeme kakhulu”. Abasebenzi bezokuvakasha bangaphikisa ngokuthi sekuvele kunjalo. Izindleko ezimaphakathi zohambo lobusuku obuyisikhombisa - ngaphandle kwezindiza zamazwe ngamazwe kanye nokuma e-Quito - ngu-£2,500. Izikebhe eziningi zithatha abantu abaphakathi kuka-10 no-50 kanti esikhulu kunazo zonke, esithwala abantu abangu-90, ngokuvamile sinengxenye yalelo nani. Isibalo sezivakashi ngosuku esiqhingini sinqunyelwe, izivakashi ziqondiswa ngaso sonke isikhathi, zigcinwe ezindleleni, zixwayiswe ukuthi zigcine ibanga labo nezilwane futhi zitshelwe, ngenkathi zisesikebheni, ukuthi zisebenzise i-sun factor ne-shampoo ebolayo.
Ezinye izivakashi, nokho, ezibuyayo ngemva kweminyaka ethile, ziye zahlatshwa umxhwele kokubili isisindo senani lezivakashi ezikanye nazo kanye nezilwane zasendle ezibonakala “zithambile”. UMark Cawardine, ebhala kumagazini wezokuvakasha i-Wanderlust ngemva kokuvakasha kwakhe kwesibili, wabika ukuthi wabona i-albatross yodwa esidlekeni sayo izungezwe amaqembu amathathu ezivakashi - abantu abangu-48 sebebonke.
Uhulumeni wase-Ecuador kuthiwa ucabanga ukunyusa imali yeGalapagos National Park, ekhokhwa yilowo nalowo mvakashi, isuka ku-$100 iye ku-$135. Abanye abahlinzeki bezokuvakasha bakholelwa ukuthi kufanele kube phezulu kakhulu. “Eziqiwini eziningi zaseKenya yi-$70 ngosuku, cishe u-$500 ngesonto,” kusho omunye. "Yilokho okufanele kube eGalapagos, futhi kufanele bakuchithe kwezemfundo, imisebenzi kanye namaphoyisa okonga imvelo." Abanye abahlinzeki bezokuvakasha bazokwamukela eminye imikhawulo enambeni yezivakashi.
U-Andrew Marr uthi, kuye, iziqhingi zaziyisenzakalo sakanye ekuphileni; usenakiwe futhi ngeke aphinde ahambe. Uma ukukhathazeka kwakho kwezemvelo kudlula ilukuluku lakho, mhlawumbe akufanele uhambe nhlobo.
Kunalokho, zama iziQhingi zaseFalkland, lapho uDarwin ngokwakhe echithe isikhathi esiningi. Lapha uzobona izinhlobo ezinhlanu ezihlukene zamaphengwini, izimvu zamanzi zezindlovu ezinobude obungamafidi angu-20 zibhincela emabhishi, imikhomo ebulalayo ezulazula ogwini - kanye namakoloni ama-albatross abukwa amaqembu ezivakashi azoba ngosayizi abasondelene nabane kunama-40.
