Yiziphi izifundo lesi siqhingi esikude — esikhulu kunazo zonke emhlabeni — okufanele zisifundise zona ngokushintsha kwesimo sezulu?

Ekuseni libalele eNingizimu yeGreenland uphawu ehembeni lika-Ib Laursen lwasho konke ngokungalindelekile. Umdwebo olula womugqa ubonise intaba eyisithombe ekhuphuka ngemuva kwedolobhana lase-Narsaq, inkundla yeqhwa engapheli evezwe ngochungechunge. Phakathi nensimu yezimbali zasendle ngixoxe no-Laursen, umnyango wezokuvakasha womuntu oyedwa wase-Narsaq, mayelana nezindlela eziningi kakhulu ukufudumala komhlaba okube nomthelela ngayo emphakathini wakhe. Ngase ngiqaphela ukuthi intaba efanayo iphakama ngemva kwakhe.

KwakungoJulayi nasentabeni yangempela iqhwa leqhwa elihlala njalo lase licibilikile.

Imvamisa isakazwa ngezibalo nasekuzingeleni, isihloko sokuguquguquka kwesimo sezulu ngokuvamile asibambeki kangako. Futhi nakuba nginayo into yokubuka igwadule eliwumqansa nezinguzunga zeqhwa, ngangize kakhulu eGreenland ukuze ngibone ukuthi kungenzeka yini kube yisiteshi esizohlola umthelela wokufudumala kwembulunga yonke empilweni yale planethi.

Ngempela, iGreenland ayinasisekelo ekushintsheni kwesimo sezulu, ukuguquguquka kwayo ngokomzimba kubonakala ngisho nayisivakashi esivamile. Ubuhle obumangalisayo, obungenakulibaleka balesi siqhingi—esikhulu kunazo zonke emhlabeni—buphoqa isivakashi ukuba sibhekane nekusasa lale planethi zikhathi zonke, nangezindlela ezingalindelekile.
Kulabo bethu abahlole ingubo enkulu yeqhwa yaseGreenland esihlalweni sefasitela lendiza elingamafidi angama-36,000, sisendleleni eya ekhaya sisuka eYurophu, kunzima ukuphika injabulo ebabazekayo yokwehla endizeni nokuxhumana nenye yezindawo ezikude kakhulu emhlabeni. izindawo. Kodwa ngaphambi kokuba sifike ngangingazi ukuthi yini okufanele ngiyilindele—abantu baphumelela kanjani endaweni engangingacabanga ukuthi yayiyindawo efiphele ngendlela engenakwenzeka?

Cishe ayikho imigwaqo ehlanganisa idolobha nelinye—ubude betiyela bungamamayela angu-XNUMX. Izindawo zokuhlala ezisogwini oluseningizimu-ntshonalanga zixhunywe izikebhe kabili ngeviki ezisebenza ehlobo, lapho amachweba engenalo iqhwa. Uma kungenjalo umuntu undizela edolobheni kuye kwelinye, ngokuvamile esebenzisa isevisi yendiza enophephela emhlane ye-Air Greenland. Kodwa izinga lokuphila lingalinganiswa ngezinye izindlela.

“IGreenland iyizwe elicebe kakhulu,” kusho u-Aasi Chemnitz Narup, imeya yenhloko-dolobha yaseGreenland, iNuuk (eyaziwa nangokuthi iGodthåb). “Sinezilwane eziningi zasendle, amanzi ahlanzekile nomoya ohlanzekile—izinto ezibalulekile ekuphileni. Futhi sinemithombo yamaminerali: igolide, amarubi, amadayimane, i-zinc. Ingasaphathwa eyokugcina uwoyela eBaffin Bay. Kuhlanganiswe, bangase basize iGreenland ukuthi ivikele iDenmark ngolunye usuku, izwe osekuyiminyaka engaba ngamakhulu amathathu eyisifundazwe esizibusayo.

Kodwa ukufudumala kwembulunga yonke kwenza isithombe sibe nzima. Amanzi afudumele asho ukuthi izimfanzi ezake zagcwala ama-fjords aseNingizimu Greenland ziye zafudukela enyakatho, okuphoqe imiphakathi edobayo ukuba ifune izinhlanzi zazo emanzini ajulile. Yiqiniso, ihlobo elide liye lavumela ukulima nemfuyo ukuba kuqalwe eningizimu—kokubili kuxhaswe kakhulu. Kodwa enyakatho, izilwandle ezazingase zibalwe njengeziqhwa ebusika ngabunye azisathembekile, okusho ukuthi ukuzingela ukuze kutholakale ukuphila—ibhere elimhlophe, i-walrus, izimvu zamanzi—akusenakuthenjwa.

Imboni yezokuvakasha esafufusa iba yimpumelelo ngemikhumbi yokuvakashelwa, izishaya isifuba ngokuvakasha okungu-35 ehlobo lika-2008, okuphindwe kabili kwezingcingo zonyaka odlule. Isitembu sepasipoti saseGreenland sithola inqolobane phakathi kwesixuku ebesenziwe-khona-leso sixuku: Ngonyaka odlule uBill Gates weza ezodlala i-heli-skiing, kwathi uSergey Brin noLarry Page wakwaGoogle badlala i-kite-surfing.

Izindlu ezenziwe ngokhuni zaseQaqortoq ((Julianehåb). Isithombe nguJens Buurgaard Nielsen.

Izinsuku ezimbili eNuuk, inhloko-dolobha yaseGreenland kanye nedolobha lapho indiza yami yahlala khona, zakwanele ukuhlola indawo, kuhlanganise nokuhamba ngesikebhe emachwebeni aseduze, agcwele iqhwa. Ngokusobala uhambo lomkhumbi bekuwuhambo lokubuka imikhomo kodwa lapho iziqhwaga zingadlali sazanelisa ngobuhle obuthambile bendawo ehlala ehlobo kuphela ebizwa ngokuthi i-Qoornoq, sikhanga kakhulu ntambama libalele echitha ukukha izimbali zasendle endaweni epholile. izintaba zeqhwa. Savala usuku ngokudla ukudla okuphambili e-Nipisa, indawo yokudlela e-trout ebhenywayo, i-risotto yamakhowe, i-filet yenkabi yenkomo, namajikijolo anobisi olugoqiwe, sibuyela ehhotela phakathi kwamabili ngaphandle kwesidingo sethoshi noma inqwaba enkulu. Enye yezinhloko-dolobha ezincane kakhulu emhlabeni—inani labantu abangu-16,000—i-Nuuk ifushane nge-charisma yezakhiwo kodwa inoxhaxha lokunethezeka kwezidalwa, okuhlanganisa nendawo enkulu yokubhukuda yasendlini enengilazi ngaphambili ebheke itheku.

Kodwa kwakuseNingizimu Greenland, uhambo lwendiza lwemizuzu engu-75 lusuka eNuuk, lapho ngayithanda khona i-arctic. I-Narsarsuaq, isikhumulo sezindiza samazwe ngamazwe kanye nokuhlaliswa kwabantu abacishe babe yi-100, iyindawo eyinhloko yokweqa amadolobhana asogwini oluseningizimu, isifunda esisendaweni efanayo ne-Helsinki ne-Anchorage. Amanxiwa aseNorse aneminyaka eyinkulungwane ubudala agcwele ugu, ikakhulukazi eBrattahlío, lapho u-Eric the Red ahlala khona nalapho indodana yakhe uLeif Eriksson yaqala ukuhlola iNyakatho Melika, amakhulu amahlanu eminyaka ngaphambi kweColumbus. I-Brattahlío yasungulwa kabusha ngeminyaka yawo-1920s ngumlimi u-Otto Fredriksen njengoQassiarsuk, futhi ukufuya izimvu kwasungulwa kabusha ngempumelelo.

Izivakashi zanamuhla zingahlola isonto elakhiwe kabusha kanye nendlu ende ene-turf-toped, zombili ezakhiwe ngesitayela sekhulu le-10. Exoxa ngendaba yendawo yokuhlala esembathweni saseNordic, u-Edda Lyberth waphakela isidlo sasemini sendabuko sama-Inuit se-seal eyomisiwe, i-cod kanye nomkhomo, inyamazane ebilisiwe, ikhekheba lezinyosi nama-currants amnyama amasha.

Ngithole uphawu, ikakhulukazi, olunzima esiswini, kepha kusalokhu kungukudla okuyisisekelo kwabaningi.

Ngaphansi komfula kulele iQaqortoq, izindlu zayo zamapulangwe ezinamagquma aminyene ezidala uthingo lwenkosazana oluzungeza itheku elihle.

Leli yidolobha elikhulu kunawo wonke eNingizimu Greenland, inani labantu abangu-3,500, kanye nechweba lalo elikhulu elingenaqhwa ebusika. Imikhumbi yama-container kabili ngeviki yenza i-Qaqortoq ibe isizinda sokuthutha sesifunda. Ukuthekelisa okuyinhloko: ama-prawn afriziwe. Inqwaba yezakhiwo ezibukekayo ze-Qaqortoq zisuka ngeminyaka yawo-1930s, isikhathi lapho u-Charles Lindbergh adlula khona ngesikhathi efuna isitobhi esifaka uphethiloli kabusha se-trans-Atlantic se-Pan Am. Okuxakayo ukuthi idolobha elinamagquma lisantula isikhumulo sezindiza—lifinyelelwa ngendiza enophephela emhlane ethokozisayo, ehamba kancane yemizuzu engu-20 esuka e-Narsarsuaq (sicela uphawule ngokuthi “Ride of the Valkyries” kaWagner), noma uhambo lwesikebhe lwamahora amane ehlobo.

Izinketho zokulala zaseNingizimu Greenland zikhawulelwe kokukodwa noma amabili edolobheni ngalinye, futhi eziyisisekelo, kodwa zanele kubahambi basemhlabeni. Izindawo zokudlela zinikeza ukudla kwezwekazi okune-Danish-accented; i-reindeer emnandi ngokumangalisayo nenkabi ye-musk ivame ukuba semenyu, futhi ngezinye izikhathi inyama yomkhomo (incane kakhulu kunalokho engiyilindele, kodwa futhi inothile). Ukuze kuhlangatshezwane nezidingo ezintsha zezokuvakasha uhulumeni ukhuphukela esicongweni ngesikole se-vocational Hospitality e-Narsaq, lapho abazofunda khona bezofundela njengabapheki bakusasa, ababhaki, abadayisi, oweta kanye nabemukeli bedeski bamahhotela.

Isimo sezulu sasilungile ngesikhathi sokuvakasha kwami—isibhakabhaka esihlanzekile esiluhlaza, sifudumele ngokwanele ukuhamba ngezikhindi—sivumela ukuguquguquka okukhulu lapho ngibuka indawo. Kulula ukujoyina uhambo losuku ngesikebhe usuka e-Qaqortoq uya e-Upernaviarsuk, isiteshi socwaningo lwezolimo esingamahektha amabili nesigamu lapho isivuno sasehlobo sasihlanganisa imifino enamaqabunga, izimpande kanye ne-cruciferous. Siqhubeka sikhuphuka i-Einars Fjord safika e-Igaliku, idolobhana lapho izinsalela zendawo yokuhlala yamaNorse zizungezwe izindlu ezijabule. Sagudla amanxiwa e-Hvalsey, isiza iGreenlanders sifuna isikhundla se-UNESCO. Izindonga zamatshe zesonto layo ezisukela kuma-1100s azishintshile.

Ngaphambi kokusuka eGreenland ngahlangana nowayengumlandeli waseFrance uJacky Simoud. Umhlali kusukela ngo-1976, ungusomabhizinisi ohwebayo e-Narsarsuaq, ophethe ikhefi yedolobha, ihostela kanye nenkampani yezimpahla zokugqoka, konke ngaphansi kwegama elithi Blue Ice. Wenza nohambo lwesikebhe oluya eQooroq Fjord eseduze, lapho iqhwa likhipha amathani angu-200,000 eqhwa ngosuku.

“Ngelinye lamancane,” kusho uSimoud, eqondisa isikebhe sakhe esimangelengele endaweni enezintaba zeqhwa eya phansi kweqhwa. “Izimboni ezinkulu zikhiqiza amathani [eqhwa] ayizigidi ezingu-20 ngosuku.” Lapho esehambe kakhulu ngendlela iqhwa eligobhozayo elalingamvumela ngokuphepha, uSimoud wayivala injini futhi omunye wabasebenzi bakhe wanikeza i-martinis ethela izingcezu zeqhwa elisha leqhwa. Ngokungagwemeki, phakathi kokuzola okuphelele, ingxoxo yashintshela ekufudumaleni komhlaba.

“Ubusika obuhle ubusika obubandayo,” kuchaza uSimoud. “Isibhakabhaka sicwebile, iqhwa liqinile futhi singakwazi ukuzungeza i-fjord ngemoto eqhweni noma ngemoto. Kodwa ubusika obune bokugcina obuhlanu bebufudumele. Noma ukushintsha ukufudumala nokubanda.”

Phezulu e-fjord, iqhwa lalibonakala phakathi kwezintaba njengengubo yenkungu engenasici kuyilapho ama-bergs azungezile eshwabene futhi eklebhula elangeni. Naphezu kwakho konke ukweqisa kwayo, ukuvakashela iGreenland kwakuwuhambo olushaqisayo oluya ezimpambanweni ezisadlulayo zesikhathi esidlule seplanethi yethu nekusasa layo.
Angikwazi ukukhuluma ubusika. Kodwa ngingasho ukuthi ihlobo elihle yihlobo laseGreenland.

Uma Uya

IGreenland inezikhumulo zezindiza ezintathu zamazwe ngamazwe. Ngaphezu kwe-Nuuk ne-Narsarsuaq, kune-Kangerlussuaq, ephakathi kwe-Nuuk ne-Ilulissat (indawo yokungena yokuvakashela i-Disko Bay, indawo enkulu yezivakashi eneqhwa elikhulu, izinguzunga zeqhwa kanye nokushushumbiswa kwezinja). I-Air Greenland indizela izikhathi eziningana ngesonto ezikhumulweni zezindiza isuka eCopenhagen, unyaka wonke. Ehlobo, kunezindiza ezisuka e-Iceland ziya eNuuk nakwezinye izindawo e-Icelandair nase-Air Iceland. Itholakala ngasekupheleni kukaMeyi kuze kube ekuqaleni kukaSepthemba, imizila yase-Iceland ishibhile kunokundiza udlula e-Copenhagen, futhi yonga cishe amahora angu-12 ngesikhathi sokuhamba usuka e-US.

Izivakashi zasehlobo zingakwazi ukuhamba ngezinyawo, i-kayaking kanye ne-fjord cruise; ukudoba i-trout ne-salmon kuthiwa kuvelele. Ebusika, i-dog-sledding, i-snowmobiling kanye nokushushuluza phezulu ohlwini lwemisebenzi, ngokuvamile kumiswa ngokumelene nengemuva lamalambu asenyakatho. Iningi labasebenza ngokuvakasha, njenge-Scantours, lipakisha ihhotela kanye nemali yendiza kodwa bathengisa uhambo lwansuku zonke nge-la carte ngokusekelwe esimweni sezulu. Uhambo lwezinsuku eziyisishiyagalombili lwe-Scantours oluya e-Narsarsuaq nase-Narsaq lubiza u-$2,972 kuhlanganisa nomoya ovela e-Iceland, noma u-$3,768 osuka e-Copenhagen. Inkampani kaJacky Simoud exhumeke kahle iBlue Ice inekhono lokuhlanganisa izinkambo namaphakheji endaweni yakhe e-Narsarsuaq.

Ngenxa yezindleko eziphakeme zokusuka edolobheni uye kwelinye eGreenland—eminingi yayo efinyelelwa kuphela ngendiza enophephela emhlane noma izikebhe—imikhumbi yokuhamba ngezinyawo ingaba indlela ephumelela kakhudlwana yokuvakasha. Inkampani enkulu ehlinzeka ngohambo lwaseGreenland yi-Hurtigruten. Uhambo lwezinsuku eziyisishiyagalombili lwasehlobo lika-2010 luqala phezulu nje ku-$4500 uma lubhukhwe ngoSepthemba 30.

UDavid Swanson unguMhleli Onikelayo kuNational Geographic Traveler futhi ubhala ikholomu "Engabizi kakhulu yaseCaribbean" kumagazini weCaribbean Travel & Life.