Kulezi zinsuku abantu abanengi sebepha iZimbabwe ithuba elibanzi. Lokhu bakwenza ngezizathu ezimbalwa: okokuqala, “Ingabe kuphephile?” okwesibili, “Kungani ufaka imali esikhwameni seZimbabwe?”
Ngihambahamba eZimbabwe ngezikhathi ezithile, ngakho ngicabanga ukuthi ngingayiphendula leyo mibuzo. Kuphephile, kodwa kungacasula. Kunezivimbamgwaqo kuyo yonke imizila emikhulu. Ngokuvamile amaphoyisa anobungane, kodwa angaba ngenye indlela. Uma kungenjalo, bashwelezwa ngawo wonke amadokhumenti alungile. Kungani ufaka imali esikhwameni seZimbabwe? Nokho, iZimbabwe akuyena nje uRobert Mugabe nabangane bakhe. IZimbabwe ingaphezu kwalokho. Yizwe elinabantu abanobungane nezindawo ezinhle ongazibona. Ngiyazi ukuthi angeke ngikwazi ukushintsha okwenzeka eZimbabwe; ukuthi ngiyahamba noma ngingayi akusho lutho.
Ngisanda kuhambela koBulawayo ngase ngidlulela eHarare. Ngihamba ngemoto ngiye eHarare, ngangingedwa, kodwa ngangingakhathazekile. Ingqalasizinda iwa kancane kancane – imigodi embalwa lapha nalaphaya, amarobhothi awavamile ukusebenza, amabhodi ezimpawu ayawa. Amaphoyisa ngokuvamile ayemnandi kwaze kwaba yilapho ngibanjwa esinye sezicupho zawo zejubane. Ekuqaleni elinye lamaphoyisa asemasha lalifuna ngiye esiteshini samaphoyisa okwalandelwa ukuvela enkantolo. Nokho, ekugcineni wanginika inhlawulo yama-US$20, ngaphinde ngahamba. Kubukeka sengathi iZimbabwe inemali yokuthenga izithiyo zejubane – beziningi – kodwa ngandlela thize zibonakala zingakwazi ukondla abantu bazo.
Endleleni ebuyela eLivingstone sisuka eHarare, silande umngane, uJosh, sama eHwange Safari Lodge. Ngiyithanda ngokuphelele iHwange Safari Lodge: indawo, indawo, indawo. Iloji ingaphandle kweHwange National Park endaweni eyimfihlo. Umbono ovela endaweni yokulala ukucindezeleka, okuphethwe yihlathi le-teak; ukucindezeleka kunomgodi wamanzi, ogcinwa umpontshwa ngamanzi futhi ukhanyiswa yisikhukhula ebusuku.
Ngichithe amahora amaningi ngihlezi ngibuka lelo chibi lamanzi, ngingafuni ukuhamba. UJosh, umdwebi wezakhiwo, uchaza ukukhanga ngokuthi “usongo nendawo engcwele.” Ukuhlala nokubuka i-waterhole kuphephe ngokuphelele ngaphakathi kwezindawo zokulala, kodwa emgodini wamanzi, izilwane zasendle zinikeza usongo. Omunye woweta wasitshela ukuthi ezinyangeni ezimbalwa ezedlule, ibhubesi lazulazula emagcekeni ehhotela, laze lafika endaweni yokwamukela izivakashi, lase lizungeza igumbi lokulala. Ngingacabanga ukuthi bekungaba mnandi lokho.
IHwange Safari Lodge inamagumbi ayi-100 futhi ibikade imatasatasa. Manje, nokho, ayivakashelwa kakhulu; sasisele sodwa abantu ngalobo busuku. Ibukeka ikhathele futhi idinga ukunakwa lapha nalaphaya. Lokho, nokho, akunandaba. Intengo ka-US$120 kubantu ababili, indawo yokulala nebhulakufesi, iyinani elihle kakhulu. Ukudla kanye nenkonzo kuhle - abanye babasebenzi sebeneminyaka bekhona.
IHwange Safari Lodge ingamakhilomitha angama-180 ukusuka eVictoria Falls. Idolobha laseVictoria Falls, lisamatasa futhi lidumile. Ukugxuma okufushane nje ukusuka lapho ukuya kulesi silungiselelo somlingo. Kunconyiwe nakanjani.
LOKHO ONGAKUTHATHE KULESI SIHLOKO:
- One of the waiters did actually tell us that a few months ago, a lion wandered into the hotel grounds, up to the reception, and then round the bedroom block.
- At first one of the young policemen wanted me to go to the police station followed by a court appearance.
- Finally, though, he gave me a fine of US$20, and I was on my way again.
