Edlala ihembe elinenkinobho enezinkinobho ezansi kanye nento encane kunethunzi lehora lesihlanu, indawo yokudlela u-Faysal Debeis unomoya wokukhathala ngaye. Futhi kufanele - ungowaseSierra Leone.
UDebeis kanye nabantu bezwe lakhe baneminyaka eyisikhombisa basuswa empini yombango eyathatha okungenani izimpilo ezingama-50,000, yalimaza unomphela abantu abayingxenye yesigidi futhi yaguqula abanye abayizigidi ezimbili baba ababaleki. Ingxabano ishiye umhlaba ubambe ongezansi ngezithombe zezidumbu ezicwiywe futhi yagqugquzela ifilimu eyashisa izikhotha yango-2 ethi "Blood Diamond," edlalwa u-Leonardo DiCaprio.
Kepha njengoba izwe lizinzile okokuqala ngqa emashumini eminyaka, uDebeis futhi ungomunye wabaningi baseSierra Leone abajabulela ukuvela kwemboni ebingalindelekile: ezokuvakasha.
ISierra Leone, okuyisizwe esincane saseNtshonalanga Afrika esinabantu abayizigidi eziyisithupha, ngabe ijoyine iSomalia phezulu ohlwini lweForbes lwamazwe ayingozi kakhulu emhlabeni muva nje ngo-6. Namuhla izwe liphephe kakhudlwana, kodwa ngenxa yezinga eliphezulu lokwehla kwamandla emali elingamaphesenti angu-2002, isamba somkhiqizo wasekhaya omncane esingamaRandi ayizigidi eziyizinkulungwane ezimbili, iminyaka yokuphila engapheli engama-8 kanye nokwephulwa kwamalungelo abantu okusabalele, iSierra Leone ikleliswe ekugcineni ohlwini lweNhlangano Yezizwe Ezihlangene Lokuthuthukiswa Kwabantu.
“Ngisalithanda leli zwe,” kusho uDebeis, umnikazi wesitolo sokudla esisogwini lolwandle i-Chez Nous e-Freetown, inhloko-dolobha yezwe, oneminyaka engu-40.
ISierra Leone inesabelo sayo sama-boosters angaphandle futhi. Ngo-2006, i-Lonely Planet yamemezela, “Akuzothatha isikhathi eside ngaphambi kokuba iSierra Leone ithathe indawo yayo endaweni yaseYurophu epakishwe ngamaholide olwandle.”
Eminyakeni emithathu kamuva, kubonakala sengathi umhlahlandlela wokuvakasha wawuqinisile.
“Muva nje, amaqembu amancane aseqalile ukuza,” kusho uFatmata Abe-Osagie weNational Tourist Board yaseSierra Leone. "Sihlose ukuqamba kabusha iSierra Leone njengendawo yezivakashi."
Isiqalo esinensa kodwa esiqinile
Bedonswa udedangendlale wamabhishi anesihlabathi esimhlophe, amahlathi aluhlaza futhi, mhlawumbe, nomuzwa osuthuthuke ngokweqile, abantu bangaphandle abangu-3,842 bavakashele eSierra Leone ngonyaka odlule, okukhuphuke ngamaphesenti angu-27. Lokho kuseyizivakashi ezingaba ngu-10.5 ngosuku (isiqhingi esincane sase-Caribbean sase-St. Barth's sithola u-550), kodwa kuyisiqalo. Isibalo sangonyaka odlule singaphezu kokuphindwe kathathu kunalaba ababuka indawo abafika kuleli eminyakeni eyishumi edlule.
U-Erica Bonanno, oneminyaka engu-24, ongowokuzalwa eNew Jersey osebenza eFreetown enkampanini engenzi nzuzo ebizwa ngokuthi iSearch for Common Ground, uthi: “ISierra Leone inamandla okuba indawo yezivakashi. “Yebo kunezinyathelo zokuphepha okufanele uzithathe, njengokungaphumi wedwa ebusuku noma ukushiya izinto ezibalulekile zingakhiyiwe, kodwa angikaze ngizizwe sengathi ngisengozini.”
Ukuthula okulinganiselwe kweminyaka embalwa edlule kuyinto engalungile emlandweni waseSierra Leone.
Ngo-1787 abaseBrithani baletha izigqila ezazikhululiwe ezingu-400 “eSifundazweni Senkululeko” ngenjongo yokumisa ikoloni lase-Utopian. Abaningi babahlali bokuqala baqedwa ngokushesha ngenxa yezifo kanye nabantu bomdabu abanobutha. Abasele babexabana njalo nezizwe zaseBrithani nezomdabu kwaze kwaba yilapho i-UK inika iSierra Leone inkululeko ngo-1961.
Ngaleso sikhathi, abavukuzi base beqalile kakade ukuthola imbewu yohlanya igqitshwe obishini olufudumele lwezwe: amadayimane. Kusukela ekutholakaleni kwabo ngeminyaka yawo-1930 kuya kuma-'70s, umuntu wayekwazi ukucosha amagugu emhlabeni oswakeme ngemva kwemvula enamandla.
Nokho, njengoba amadayimane ayekhula kunzima ukuwakhipha, iSierra Leone yafana nokuchithwa kwegazi. Ekuqaleni kwawo-1990, indoda eqinile yaseLiberia uCharles Taylor waqeqesha futhi wabhalisa amasosha ukuba athathe amasimu edayimane ngenkani, okwaholela empini yombango enonya enesilinganiso sosuku esihlanganisa yonke into kusukela emasosheni ezingane ezivukelayo kuya ekudlwengulweni kuya ekunqunyweni kwezitho zomzimba.
Ekugcineni amavukela-mbuso axoshwa futhi aphucwa izikhali amabutho e-UN. Ngo-2002, iningi labaholi base bebanjiwe, futhi u-Taylor okwamanje ulinde ukuqulwa kwamacala empi e-The Hague.
Ukhetho lukaMengameli u-Ernest Bai Koroma lwangoSepthemba 2007 lwaphawula okokuqala emlandweni waseSierra Leone ukuthi ukunqoba kweqembu eliphikisayo akuzange kudale udweshu lwezikhali. UKoroma useqale ithimba elizolwa nayo yonke into kusukela enkohlakalweni kuhulumeni kuya ekuchameni komphakathi.
Ukuthengiswa kwedayimane okusemthethweni, okwase kwehle kwafinyelela ku-$1.2 million ngo-1999 lapho amavukela-mbuso elawula ingxenye enkulu yezwe, afinyelela ezigidini ezingu-200 zamaRandi. I-Sierra Leone igcine ikhishiwe ohlwini Lokweluleka Ngohambo Lomnyango Wesifunda Sase-US.
Iholide elidlulele
Izindiza eziya eFreetown zibiza (ziqala ku-$1,600 ukuya nokubuya ukusuka eNew York), kodwa lolu hambo lufaneleka kakhulu kumuntu ohamba eholidini othanda ukulibaleka.
Uma sesidlulile esitokisini - asikho isidingo sokufumbathisa amanxusa noma ungethuki uma bebhala uphawu lwedola elikhulu epotimendeni lakho, obekubonakala kungasho lutho - ingxenye ebuhlungu kakhulu yohambo uhambo olusuka eLungi luya ezweni elikhulu. Izivakashi kufanele zikhethe phakathi kwesikebhe ($5 ukuya nokubuya, ngokuvamile esifika ngemva kwesikhathi - noma ungalokothi), indiza enophephela emhlane egqwalile yenkathi yeSoviet ($70, naphezu kokubukeka kwayo okungabazisayo nomlando ohambisana nezingozi ezibulalayo) kanye ne-hovercraft ($60, evame ukufika futhi ihambe isikhathi). Thatha i-hovercraft. Izingozi zezikhathi ezithile azinankinga, kodwa azibulali.
Uma ufika ebusuku, ungathuswa imililo egcwele indawo phakathi nohambo lwebhasi elibi lisuka esikhumulweni sezindiza liya kutheminali ye-hovercraft. Lezi yizimbaqa ezikhanyisa imigwaqo engagandayiwe; ugesi awukho cishe ezingxenyeni eziningi zezwe. Kanjalo namarobhothi, imishini yokukhipha imali, amapayipi amanzi asendlini nezinye izinto eziningi ezithathwa kalula eNtshonalanga.
Izindlu zangasese ezishaywayo, amanzi ahlanzekile nokunye ukunethezeka komhlaba wokuqala kungatholakala cishe ngo-$100 ubusuku ngabunye emahhotela ambalwa aseFreetown engxenyeni yolwandle yolwandle i-Aberdeen. Cabanga ngeHotela iBintumani, enkulu kunazo zonke ezweni, noma iCape Sierra, engelinye lamahle kakhulu. Ihlezi phezu kwendawo enamatshe emaphethelweni e-Atlantic, i-Cape Sierra inikeza amagumbi ahlanzekile, ichibi kanye nendawo yokudlela enokubukwa okugcwele kolwandle.
I-Lumley Beach iyizinyathelo ezivela kuwo womabili amahhotela. Izungezwe ulwandle oluluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka ngakolunye uhlangothi namagquma anamachashazi ngakolunye, indawo emnandi yokuphumula, inqobo nje uma ungenandaba nomthengisi we-panhandler noma umthengisi we-roving bootleg DVD. Thatha i-Heineken ngo-$1 kwenye yezindawo zolwandle ezifulelwe ngotshani noma uhambe enye ikhilomitha eduze kwamanzi ukuze uthole ukudla kwasolwandle e-The Bunker, isidlo sakusihlwa sezimfanzi e-Chez Nous noma isiteki sikashizi e-Roy's. Isidlo sakusihlwa esimnandi sababili, esiphelele ngama-cocktails, sizokubuyisela emuva cishe u-$12.
Ngale kolwandle
Kulabo abazimisele ukuya ngale kolwandle, kunokuningi ongakwenza edolobheni laseFreetown. Ukugibela amatekisi okungu-$2 kuzokuyisa enkabeni yedolobha ngemizuzu engama-20 evalekile; dumisa isithuthuthu futhi, ngo-$1, uzothola ukugibela okusheshayo - kanye nolwazi oludabukisayo oludabukisayo phakathi kwama-jalopies akhipha intuthu.
Uma ufuna ukubona izwe lonke, qasha umshayeli ($150 ngosuku, kuhlanganisa nophethiloli) ukuthi akuyise ezifundazweni ezisenyakatho. Indawo yasemaphandleni isagcwele izidumbu ze-jeep ezishile nezakhiwo ezinezinhlamvu; njengoba udlula emizaneni emincane, izingane ziphuma emaqhugwaneni zigqolozele futhi zikhombe. Phakamisa ukudla okuningi ongakunikeza - kanye nawe ukuthi udle. Azikho izindawo eziningi zokuma ukuze uthole amakhefu, ngaphandle uma ufuna ukudla kwasezindaweni zaseSierra Leone okufana ne-“crain-crain,” ingxube yezinhlanzi, inyama yenkomo, izinongo, irayisi namaqabunga omdumbula.
Idolobha laseKoidu elinezimayini zedayimane liqhele ngamakhilomitha angaba ngu-200 ukusuka eFreetown, uhambo lwamahora angu-XNUMX emigwaqweni engagandayiwe. Lapho, ungabheka izinto ezithengiswayo zabathengisi bedayimane abahlezi ngemva kwamafasitela anemigoqo ezitolo eziklelise umgwaqo omkhulu wedolobha obukeka u-Wild West. Iminyango nezindonga zezakhiwo eziwohlokayo zisathwele amanxeba ezinhlamvu zempi.
Thenga idayimane uma kufanele, kodwa qiniseka ukuthi uyalimemezela lapho uphuma futhi ukhokhe imali edingekayo yokuthumela ngaphandle engamaphesenti amahlanu. Izimo eSierra Leone ziyathuthuka, yebo. Kodwa amajele akhona enza amajele aseMelika abukeke njengeholide.
