Akukho lutho oluyisibonelo semvelo yehlobo eGulf njengobukhona bokuvakasha kwemvula.
Ngenkathi yonke i-Arabia ibhaka ngaphansi kwelanga elingapheli, indawo encane eseningizimu ye-Oman iphithizela izivakashi ngenxa yesimo sezulu esishintshashintshayo kanye nezwe elinika i-monsoon.
Kukuphi okunye ngaphandle kwasehlobo lase-Arabia lapho ukuduma kwendawo okuyiwa kuyo kungakhuphuka ngokuhlobene ngqo nethuba lokuhlangabezana nemvula? Noma Amaholide Ezindiza E-Oman asebenzisa inkulumo ethi “inkungu enokuthula nezihlambi ezimangalisayo” ngaphandle kokuhlekisa phakathi kwezindawo zayo ezithengisa kakhulu ngamaholide esizini ye-khareef?
Lokhu bekuyobonakala kungaphezu kokuqonda lapho ngihlala emakhoneni amnyama omhlaba, kodwa ngesikhathi ihlobo lami lesibili e-Abu Dhabi lizungeza, ngangigxumela ethubeni lokuya eSalalah njengesivakashi semvula esigcwele ngokugcwele.
Njengoba indiza yami ibheke eningizimu inqamula indawo evamile eshiswe yilanga yenhlonhlo yase-Arabia, ngezwa ngilangazelela imvula enenkungu esikhumbeni sami kanye nokubona noma yiluphi uhlobo lwezitshalo olwalungenalo ipayipi lokunisela elimnyama le-polyethylene eliya kuso.
Njengoba sisondela ucezu lwezintaba ezibamba imvula ezichaza umcengezi lapho iSalalah itholakala khona, ungqimba oluwugqinsi lwefu elikhiqizwe yi-khareef lwavala indlela yami yokubuka umhlaba futhi kwadingeka nginxephezele ngokukhumbula izithombe eziluhlaza nezimpophoma ezivezwe kulo. izincwajana zezivakashi.
Kodwa lapho indiza yehla ngaphansi kongqimba lwamafu, isithombe esavelayo kwakungesona esoluhlaza okotshani kodwa esinsundu esintekenteke esifana ngokuphawulekayo nemibala engangiyishiye e-Abu Dhabi. Uma kukhona, ukungabikho kwezinhlelo zokunisela zenkasa zenhloko-dolobha kwakusho ukuthi umbono wawuyinyumba nakakhulu.
U-Ahmed, umqondisi wami, wangihlangabeza esikhumulweni sezindiza futhi wachaza okusobala: i-khareef isebenza amasonto ambalwa ngasekupheleni kwalo nyaka.
Isizini ngokwesiko iqala ngenjikalanga yehlobo ngoJuni 21 kodwa ingxenye yesithathu yendlela kuze kube uJulayi, bekungakafaneli kube nenkungu enokuthula noma imvula ethokozisayo ukuze kunqandwe isomiso kusukela ekupheleni kweziphepho zemvula yokugcina.
Noma kunjalo, nakuba indlela yokugcina yendiza yami yayingaphezu kwethafa eliwugwadule nelingenakuphila, ohlangothini lwedolobha lwesikhumulo sezindiza kwakunensimu yezihlahla zikakhukhunathi ezinyakaziswa umoya oshisayo njengokungathi zikhishwe kwezentengiselwano i-Bounty.
Khona-ke, lapho sihamba, ngabona ukuthi isiphephelo-moya semoto sivaliwe futhi nakuba manje sisezindaweni ezishisayo, amafasitela ambalwa avuliwe anele ukusigcina sikhululekile. Kumelwe ukuba sekudlule izinyanga okungenani ezimbili ngagcina ukuhamba ngemoto e-Abu Dhabi ngaphandle kokuba i-aircon ibe yimfuneko.
“Sinezinkathi ezimbili zonyaka lapha,” kuchaza u-Ahmed, kodwa ngase ngivele ngangazi ukuthi kunezinyanga eziyisishiyagalolunye zesomiso bese kuba yizinyanga ezintathu ze-khareef, cishe kusukela enkathini yelanga kuze kube i-equinox ngoSepthemba.
Kuvele ukuthi u-Ahmed ubhekise kokuthile okuhluke kancane. "Kunesizini yaseYurophu futhi kunesizini yama-Arab."
Futhi wayeqinisile. Zombili zihluke ngendlela okungenzeka ngayo. Kusukela ngo-Okthoba kuya ku-Ephreli, abantu abahlala eYurophu babalekela isimo sezulu esimanzi, esimpunga nesipholile ngenxa yesihlabathi esiseningizimu ye-Oman, ilanga nokushisa. Futhi kusukela ngoJuni kuya kuSepthemba, abantu abahlala e-Arabia babalekela isihlabathi sabo, ilanga nokushisa ngenxa yesimo sezulu esimanzi, esimpunga nesipholile sikaSalalah. Kuleli sonto, izinga lokushisa lifinyelele ku-27 degrees futhi izimvula sezifikile.
Kuningi okuningi eSalalah kanye nendawo eyizungezile kunekhareef nje. Njengoba sihamba edolobheni, yaziveza ukuthi iyinde, encane futhi ayithandeki, eqhelelene nolwandle futhi ineshwa elibi lokwakhiwa kwe-Stalinist, kwalimala izinsalela ezimbalwa eziwohlokayo zezitayela zendabuko zase-Arabia. .
Kodwa kuqhubeke kancane kwakukhona indawo yepulazi ewumngcingo phakathi kwedolobha nogu olude olunesihlabathi esimhlophe, lapho amanzi amaningi angaphansi komhlaba evumela khona ukuba kukhule kahle ngisho nalapho inkathi yesomiso yaminyaka yonke ijula. Kunezihlahla zesundu zikakhukhunathi ezinyakazayo, eduze kwezihlahla zikamoba oluhlaza okotshani, ubhanana nezihlahla zikapopo kanye nemigqa yezitolo ezifulelwe phezulu eceleni komgwaqo ezigcwele izithelo zasezindaweni ezishisayo ezithengiswayo.
Ngangingeyena owokuqala ukuthanda umkhiqizo weSalalah wasezindaweni ezishisayo. Ngekhulu le-14, u-Ibn Battuta wavakashela eSalalah phakathi nohambo lwakhe olude eDhofar; ngaphezu kweminyaka engama-700 ngemuva kwe-Battuta, uWilfred Thesiger wafika ngemuva nje kwesizini ye-khareef ngo-1945. USalalah wayeyisiqalo salokho okwakuzoba ukuwela kwakhe okuyingqophamlando kwe-Empty Quarter, nakuba isizathu sakhe sokuqala sokuba lapho kwakungenxa yokuthi i-khareef yayisolwa ngokudala. izimo zokuzalanisa ezabangela izinhlupho zesikhonyane zasogwadule ezahlupha yonke indawo yaseMpumalanga Ephakathi.
Encwadini ethi Arabian Sands: “Ukubukeka kwalezi zintaba okuthile okungavamile kudonsa amafu emvula enkulu [futhi] ngenxa yalokho ambozwa inkungu nemvula kulo lonke ihlobo futhi abe mnyama namahlathi agcwele amaqabunga ngemva kwemvula enkulu,” ebhala e-Arabian Sands; “Kuyo yonke indawo ogwini lwase-Arabia oluseningizimu ngamamayela angu-1,400 ukusuka ePerim ukuya eSur, yilawa mamayela angu-20 kuphela athola imvula evamile.”
Kodwa u-Thesiger akazange ahlabeke umxhwele ngeSalalah, nezinkumbulo zakhe eziyinhloko ukuthi kwakuyidolobhana eline-souq engakhuthazi kanye nephunga elinamandla lamasardine ashiywe ukuze ome elangeni ngemva kokuhlaliswa abadobi bendawo.
Akumangazi ukuthi naye wakuthola kumkhathaza ukuthi angahamba kuphela uma ephelezelwa omunye wonogada bakaSultan. Eminyakeni engaphezu kwengu-60 kamuva, ngakujabulela ukuphelezelwa u-Ahmed, owazibonakalisa engumqondisi onolwazi nonobungane.
Ngokungafani nemvula enkulu efika ngokuqhuma kungazelelwe kwezinye izingxenye ze-Asia, wachaza ukuthi i-khareef ivamise ukwakheka kancane lapha lapho kunemimoya enamandla yasogwini bese kuba nemvula eshintsha indawo yasemaphandleni isuke ensundu ibe luhlaza. Nakuba imvula yayingakaqali, umoya we-khareef wawusuvele ungenile futhi esikhundleni samarola aginqikayo angena esuka oLwandle lwase-Arabia eya ogwini lwaseSalalah isikhathi esiningi sonyaka, manje kwase kukhona ukuntweza okunamandla okuvunguza ngamandla. amanzi futhi kudala imisinga eyingozi.
Kodwa kube nohlangothi oluhle kulokhu, oluvele lapho sishayela sisuka eSalalah siya entshonalanga ogwini lwaseMughsayl. Ukubhukuda endaweni okungamakhilomitha amane olwandle olunesihlabathi esihle esimhlophe kwakungeke kuthandeke ngokusobala kodwa ngasentshonalanga, ukuntweza okunamandla kusho ukuthi izimbobo zemvelo edwaleni le-limestone zisezingeni eliphezulu.
Izimbobo eziningi ezinkulu zokushaywa zinezimbobo zokushisa ezifakiwe phezu kwazo, eyodwa engakhiqizi lutho ngaphandle kwesivunguvungu somoya esihambisana nomsindo wekhwela owesabekayo, okunikeza u-dishdash ongazi noma ogqoke i-abaya ithuba lokulingisa isigcawu sika-Marilyn Monroe esidumile sokuvunguza isiketi kusukela kuNyaka Oyisikhombisa. Ukuluma.
Okunye okuseduze kwakuyizimbobo zokubhoboza zikaMughsayl futhi zahluka phakathi kokukhiqiza inkungu enamandla amakhulu yenkungu enamanzi, igwebu lasolwandle elinogwebu namagalani amanzi olwandle endizela emoyeni ibanga elingu-10m noma ngaphezulu, ngokuvamile ngaphandle kwesaziso kusengaphambili. Noma ubani ophanjaniswe ukungabikho kwemvula kwakudingeka nje ame kancane ukuze azizwe ecwile.
Endleleni yethu ebuyela edolobheni, u-Ahmed wakhuphuka ngomgwaqo oseceleni wangena embhedeni owubhuqu lapho sahamba saya esihlahleni esibukeka sengathi siyashabalalisa. Ngemva kokuthwebula isiqu somboko, wakhipha insada ejiyile wanginika yona.
Ngahlikihla ushingamu onamathela kancane phakathi kweminwe yami, ngathatha iphunga futhi ngaso leso sikhathi ngabuyiselwa enkumbulweni yami ephunga lamasonto amadala okhuni. Kwakusenzima ukukholelwa ukuthi lena kwakuyinsika yengcebo yendawo eyathatha izinkulungwane zeminyaka - inhlaka yempepho, noma i-lubban ngesi-Arabhu.
Kwakwenziwe ingcebo enkulu kusukela ukuhweba ngempepho kwaqala eminyakeni engu-5,000 edlule futhi uchungechunge lwamadolobha asechwebeni athuthukile kulolu hlangothi logu ukuze ondle abaseGibhithe, amaNdiya kanye namaRoma ilubban.
Izazi zase-Egypt zathola iSamhuran, idolobhana elinezivikelo eziqinile endaweni enhle ebheke entubeni esempumalanga yeSalalah, eboniswe emdwebeni owabhalwa eminyakeni engu-1,500 XNUMX edlule ethempelini eliseSigodini Samakhosi eLuxor, lapho abaseGibhithe lasendulo babesebenzisa khona inhlaka yempepho njengengxenye yokungcwaba. amasiko.
Kepha ngemuva kwezinkulungwane zeminyaka zokukhiqiza ingcebo enkulu, ukuhweba kwafa ngokuzumayo phakathi neminyaka ephakathi namadolobhana afana neSamhuran ne-Al Balid, emaphethelweni eSalalah, aqala ukwehla kwawo aba yizindawo zokuvubukula ezinothuli ezingasho lutho ezinkazimulweni ezedlule.
Manje i-echo yesikhathi esidlule isekhona ezitolo eziningi ezincane ezizinikele ekuthengiseni inhlaka e-Al Husn souq e-Salalah, lapho abanikazi bazo bezokhipha izinto ezisezingeni eliphezulu ngaphansi kwekhawunta ngokuthanda nje okuncane.
Bengizama ukuthola ukuthi kungani inhlaka yempepho enemibala eluhlaza yayibiza kakhulu uma ngizwa ukugudluzwa okuvela ku-Ahmed, owakhomba enye i-vat ye-vegetative matter. “Bonani lokhu,” esho. “Lesi yimure. Manje okumele sikwenze ukuthi uthole igolide futhi uzoba indoda ehlakaniphile.”
“Ukube bekulula kanjalo,” ngiphendula.
Ngosuku olulandelayo, uhambo luka-Ahmed lwakhuphukela ezintabeni ngemuva kweSalalah. “Kuhle futhi kuguqubele namuhla,” kusho u-Ahmed ngenjabulo njengoba sikhuphukela emagqumeni agangile sivakashela iThuna likaJobe, indawo yokugcina yokuphumula yomprofethi weTestamente Elidala kanye nesizinda sezenkolo esibaluleke kakhulu esifundeni.
Kodwa njengoba sishayela eduze komphetho womkhathi obheke ithafa, ifu lihlangana entweni ecishe isondele enkungwini eshiya umbono omncane kakhulu esikrinini sangaphambili. “Ah, maconsi!” U-Ahmed uthi, bese sigudla ukhakhayi bese inkungu ihlakazeke. Yisikhathi esiseduze kakhulu engake ngafikelwa yimvula ngesikhathi somzamo wami wokuba isivakashi semvula e-Salalah.
Kamuva, ngemva kohambo olunothuli lwezinye izikhumulo zempepho e-Taqah nase-Mirbat, sishayela sibuyela e-Salalah lapho u-Ahmed ekhuphuka ngomgwaqo oseceleni okhuphuka kwenye i-wadi ebanzi. Ngokushesha umsele wokunisela we-falaj uyavela bese siphuma kwesinye seziphethu ezihlala njalo ezingama-360 esifundeni saseSalalah.
Esikhaleni esingamamitha angamakhulu ambalwa, indawo isuke kunsundu eyincithakalo yaya kokuluhlaza okotshani, nemivini kanye nezihlahlana ezinamahlamvu abanzi ezichumayo ochungechungeni lwemithombo yemvelo ephuma phansi egwadule. Lapha kukhona ukusikisela nje kokuthi i-khareef kumele ibe njani.
"Bona lokhu," kusho u-Ahmed ngokunqoba. “Kuluhlaza konke! Okungenani uke wakubona okuluhlaza ngaphambi kokuthi uhambe.” Futhi ngikwenzile. Ngemva kwamahora ambalwa, ngisuka eSalalah ngendiza eya emapayipini amnyama e-polyethylene ase-Abu Dhabi.
